Gentile’s Giant

Diners at Gentile’s on Burnet Avenue on Saturday, March 31, were enjoying Kevin Gentile’s famous food, unaware that he was planning on closing after the last group left. “I didn’t want people to know I was moving, so that everyone would still come in, instead of waiting for the new restaurant to open,” says Gentile, revealing his clever, albeit monumentally difficult, plan of relocating to 313 N. Geddes St. “We packed everything up Saturday night, left at 3 a.m., put everything in place over the weekend and were open for business on Tuesday {April 3}.” 

On Monday morning, April 2, however, an unfortunate glitch held things up: A foam substance that sprays over possible fires was inadvertently triggered. “I had to scrape off every surface in the kitchen until all was clean,” Gentile says. Undaunted, as always, he just chalked up the mishap to “coming with the territory.”  

People who did call for reservations thinking they would be headed to Burnet Avenue, were surprised to be directed to the new Gentile’s on the West Side. “We wanted a soft opening so we could be sure that we were ready,” says the chef-owner. But word of mouth brought in the crowds. By Friday, April 6, every table was filled, and the bar was lined three-deep. 

MICHAEL DAVIS PHOTO

Surely, the workload required a full kitchen of cooks and prep workers to keep things moving. Not a chance. “It was just me and my garde manger, Andrew Van Gorden {a garde manger is responsible for cold-food preparations, like salads}. We put out 158 dinners that night.” Ricky Gonzales, who was Kevin’s sous chef at the Burnet Avenue location, transferred as well.

The Geddes Street venue has seen many incarnations, from a local bar, to the upscale Park Circle Restaurant which opened in 1982, overseen by restaurateur Danny Klamm; it closed in 1994. Klamm reopened the venue as 313 in 1995, and it continued until 2000. Noted local restaurateur John Julian then opened the spot as Johnnie’s. Next came Dolce, a martini bar that catered to the young and restless. For a nanosecond it was called Tony’s 313, then Bella Vita. Klamm re-entered the location in 2010 with a top-of-the-line steakhouse called Prime, but it closed shortly thereafter when it moved to Hanover Square. 

The new Gentile’s is a far cry from its old “plain Jane” exterior along Burnet Avenue. The medieval-like design of the Geddes Street structure, rebuilt in 1982, has been retained, as has the rich mahogany-hued stain covering the concrete edifice. Inside, the layout is similar to when it was originally created, with a lot of updates already in place, and more to come. The main entrance opens to a small area with a podium occupied by general manager Andrew Belair, who greets incoming diners, although you might be met by one of a bevy of young and lovely hostesses who will do the honors when Belair tends to other duties.  

A curved stairway to the second level, its wall of wine bottles imbedded into the stucco, creates an impressive view. The wall is a holdover from the original Park Circle, but some surprises are planned for the future. To the right is a spacious bar area, and to the left are the variously arranged dining spaces, housing booths and tables. New carpeting has been installed here, but for now, light sconces are the only adornment on the walls. “The walls are being repainted, and we also plan on incorporating some interesting decorative artwork,” says Gentile. 

A large, bright and semi-open kitchen is about twice the size of that in the old place, and just behind the barroom is a small area that will become a tapas bar. Private parties and banquets will be held on the upper level where there is already a full bar; a new kitchen is also in the works.

Gentile’s culinary roots began with his Italian family, which gathered for wonderful and plentiful meals, especially on the holidays. He grew up in Utica, home to so many chefs that have moved to Syracuse over the years and still maintain Italian restaurants here. Cooking seems to be in his blood. 

“I had two jobs right out of high school, then worked at Cavallo’s in New Hartford,” recalls Gentile. He moved to Syracuse in 2001 to oversee the kitchen at Georgio’s Village Café, on Court Street in Lyncourt. Georgio’s, formerly the Lyncourt Grille, was a local, casual hangout that Gentile quickly turned into a dining destination. The creative chef was determined to own his own restaurant, and in May 2003, he opened Gentile’s. 

After eight years of a consistently growing clientele, the Burnet Avenue spot had become too small. And then came the offer. Just a year ago, Gentile was approached by the three owners of the building at 313 N. Geddes St., which had been unoccupied for two years, suggesting that he move his restaurant there. 

Scanning through the restaurant’s “eclectic Italian” menu, the “eclectic” quickly pops out. No shrimp cocktail is listed here, although you may certainly order it if you want. But there are so many other mouth-watering and appealing choices that beg sampling. Gentile especially revels in conjuring up inspiring offerings that tempt the palate. 

It is difficult to choose from the appetizers, and some diners even opt to create their meal just from the nine starters. A sampling may include the beef Napoleon, served rare and layered with fried flour tortillas, fried onion, horseradish cream sauce and watercress, for $9. Buttermilk quail is fried and set atop carrot and cumin slaw for $11.95. Greens Gentile is his take on the famous Utica greens. He sautés escarole mixed with spicy sausage, pancetta, cherry peppers and broccoli, then tops with cheese and toasted breadcrumbs for $9.95.  

Five salads are each priced at $5.95. On the pasta and risotto list are chicken or veal risotto, as well as six pasta dishes. At Gentile’s the requisite vegetable and starch are exceptional parts of the meal, and the chef chooses a different side dish each night. 

True to Gentile’s creative spirit, each of his 11 entrees is more appealing than the other. His half-duck with fried artichokes and fennel in clover honey and black pepper glaze is a standout. Try his lobster with dates and almonds in spicy orange sauce drizzled with parsley oil and topped with gorgonzola for $28.95. Gentile’s beef filet is like no other, served atop chimay cheese risotto with shiitake mushrooms in tarragon butter, for $22.95. Chimay cheese is a pricy, tangy and aromatic cheese made by Trappist monks in Belgium.

Don’t forget lunch. Dishes gleaned from the dinner menu are here, including appetizers, soups, salads and pasta. For other midday items, add gourmet sandwiches and wraps, or an unusual duck cake, combined with applewood-smoked bacon and served with blueberry jalapeno marmalade, lettuce and tomato, for $11.95. There is also a BLT, but with turkey, fried green tomatoes and fried bacon with lemon parsley mayonnaise for $10.95. 

There are bonuses offered during the week. Tuesday is “bring-your-own-wine” night; just pay a corking fee. On Wednesdays’ “Quiz Kevin” night, diners bring a list of favorite food items and challenge the chef to come up with a creative dish from the given ingredients. He loves doing this. Thursday is pasta night, when all pastas, including salad, are $14.95 each.

The relocated Gentile’s Restaurant is open for lunch Tuesdays through Fridays, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner hours are Tuesdays through Thursdays, 5 to 9 p.m.; Fridays and Saturdays, 5 to 10:30 p.m.; with additional Sunday hours from 4 to 8 p.m. October through May. For details, call 474-8258 or visit gentilesrestaurant.com.

If you find yourself in the northern suburbs, or want a dinner that’s a little less involved, check out Gentile’s Pasta & Pizza Café, at 1349 Cold Spring Road (Route 370, corner of Long Branch Road) in Liverpool. Managing the operation is Charlene Gentile, his former wife; they divorced six years ago. “We still have a good working relationship,” says Kevin. Guess so! 

“I live in Liverpool, and passed by this corner with its empty pizza shop a lot,” says Gentile. “It didn’t take me long to realize that this was a perfect spot to open a casual and informal Gentile’s.”

Gentile’s Pasta & Pizza Café opened Sept. 4, 2011, and has enjoyed a land-office business ever since. Unlike most drop-in pasta pizza places that scream tomato-red signs with comic-book pictures of pizza slices and pies, Gentile’s sports a calm and inviting straw yellow and grass green exterior. The no-nonsense interior seats about 30.  

A steam table for hot items, an order/checkout counter and a glass showcase that displays pies ordered by the slice are deftly incorporated into the room. A blackboard lists wines and beers. Families with youngsters can take advantage of the dining room where kids can happily roam about while munching on their pizza. Add to the fun on Sundays when a caricaturist is on hand to sketch family members.

The café’s location is less than a five-minute drive from the village of Liverpool, which makes for an easy in-and-out for dinner at home. Or pick up a picnic to take to nearby Longbranch Park. “Our takeout represents about 40 percent of our business here,” notes Kevin Gentile. 

As for pies, you won’t find one of those rubbery and dull-tasting pizzas here. A thin and crispy cheese pie for $7.95 may get adorned with the likes of meatballs, artichokes, mushrooms, peppers, broccoli, spinach or cherry peppers for $1 for each item. Or try a designer pizza. Adults enjoy a menu of five starters, including his popular greens Gentile, a carryover from his other venue, for $7.95.   

True to its combined name of pasta and pizza, six noodle choices with six sauces can be elaborated with 10 additional accompaniments, like meatballs, chicken or shrimp. Of course, there are Italian favorites; familiar meat lasagna is there, as is chicken riggies. A salad to go with your pasta or pizza is always nice, but the size of Gentile’s could serve as a meal at lunch. Come in on Friday for a crispy fried haddock dinner with fries and coleslaw for $9.95. 

Gentile’s Pasta & Pizza Cafe is open Tuesdays through Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., and Sundays, noon to 8 p.m. For information, call 457-3333 or visit PastaPizzaCafe.com.