Baldwinsville’s Olives Eatery imparts flair with its decor and its menu

Step into a world of whimsy when you dine at Olives Eatery, the charming, apostrophe-free food emporium at 25 Syracuse St., Baldwinsville. Owner Debra Case has carved out what has quickly become a destination for those looking for an unusual setting for a midday repast; dinner isn’t served here yet.

Open since May 2008, Olives Eatery is housed in the rear of what was originally a two-family residence, located just south of the bridge over the Seneca River/Barge Canal. Always dressed for the seasons, the venue currently wears gold, orange and brown, matched by fancy flourishes in the building’s exterior. Posters hawking turn-of-the-century nightlife in “Gay Paree” grace walls in both small dining areas, along with a chalkboard listing selections from the menu.

Vintage white gauze skirts and blouses folded over a small screen conceal the miniature kitchen and pick up the flowing fashions from surrounding posters. Wrought-iron soda fountain-style chairs surround glass-topped dining tables, and instead of floral vases, centered on top are fronds of greens spiraling from carved-out Granny Smith apples. Cornered hutches display wine and beer offerings in between antique pottery and, in the second dining area, there is an alcove designated for elfin creatures peeking through myriad branches. It’s an enchanting picture. 

Case’s prowess in the kitchen came from family, mostly her grandfather, Mario Galluzzo. Syracusans will remember the flamboyant restaurateur as owner of Lorenzo’s, on South Salina Street. Former Syracuse Mayor Lee Alexander worked as a bartender there to help pay for his law school tuition. Galluzzo also owned Mario’s Piccolo Bistro on James Street, the back-entrance restaurant with the miniature Eiffel Tower in the parking lot.

“I checked out many names before deciding on this one,” says Case of Olives. The menu uses food from both her mother’s French and father’s Italian roots, including olives in a number of dishes.

Case put together the menu and hired Lisa Mitchell, who at the time had her own catering business, to oversee the kitchen. Robert Limburg, formerly with The Krebs in Skaneateles and the Inn Between in Camillus, came on as server and Lana Alley became general manager. She hires extra help for large parties and catering. “We all work together as a team,” says Case, “and I hope to be able to include profit sharing in the future.”

Piped-in background music, ranging from the soulful Edith Piaf to gravelly voiced Louis Prima, laced in between a host of opera singers, sets the scene for the French/Italian-inspired menu. Start with a choice of hot dips of shredded chicken or spinach/artichoke for $9, or order a half portion for $5. Six salads are all $9 each. Citrus combines oranges, grapefruit, almonds, red onion and capers over a bed of greens. Nicola combines romaine, gorgonzola, carrots and walnuts. Mixed greens are topped with turkey, ham, tomato and cucumber for the Juliette. Romaine, cucumbers, tomatoes, kalamata olives and feta cheese is appropriately named Mediterranean. Chicken salad combines mixed greens with roasted chicken, oranges and almonds. Antipasto is romaine, peppers, salami, provolone, artichokes and pepperoncini. 

Dressings include roasted garlic vinaigrette, olive oil/balsamic, lemon citrus, wasabi soy or raspberry vinaigrette. True to offering something different, salads are served in colanders, with dressing on the side, so as not to seep through the holes.     

A choice of seven paninis is offered for $9. The Popeye has smoked turkey, Swiss cheese, bacon and spinach. Italiano is ham, salami, provolone, red peppers and roasted garlic. VV’s Turkey also has brie, granny smith apples and cranberry sauce. Ferro combines roast beef, provolone, caramelized onions and horseradish. Vegetarian has greens, cucumbers, tomato, feta cheese and black olives. Garden tuna layers tomatoes, romaine, green apple and dill. And Cubby combines chicken with spinach, tomato, Swiss cheese and dill.

Orzo is one of Olives Eatery’s specials, which changes weekly. One combination included a mixture of peas, mushrooms and mozzarella in the rice-like pasta. Ten dollars will get you half a roasted chicken and orzo, a hearty dish big enough for your main meal.

French onion soup is always on the menu, alongside another soup offering. Wines and beers are also available. “Men enjoy coming in," says Case, "when they know they can order a beer with their lunch.”  

There is ample parking in the rear, especially with the newly installed blacktop, but additional parking is easily available along Syracuse Street. Summer boaters come over from the Barge Canal, a short walk away. 

Between the two dining rooms, there is seating for 38. In season, outdoor seating expands to an additional 60, plus 36 in the wine room. The spot is open for dining Mondays through Saturdays, 11:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Takeout is available by calling 638-1955.        

But food isn’t the only reason to visit Olives Eatery. It is also a stopping-off place to shop for unique jewelry, scarves and other gift items in the connected front room. “I knew I wanted to open a restaurant, but also wanted to make use of the other spaces,” Case explains. She hesitates to use the word “restaurant” because dinners aren’t on the menu yet.

What has evolved is her own shop, Cottage Designs, tastefully equipped with a series of wrought-iron tables and chairs, for al fresco dining in season. A miniature wagon laden with bundles of colorful artificial fall blooms sits in one corner. Swaths of green drapery across the front balustrade combine in a theater-like atmosphere. This fetching scene will no doubt change into a holiday theme now that Christmanstime is close at hand.

There is more to explore on the second floor. The Little Black Dress Boutique, an upscale consignment shop, takes up much of the front space where you may browse through everything from casual to holiday attire, along with jewelry, shoes and other accessories, at affordable prices. Smaller spaces toward the back, which were originally bedrooms, a bathroom and even closets, are leased for giftables and crafts. The once master bedroom, to the rear, holds some furniture for sale.

“This has become a nice arrangement for my tenants and myself,” she says, adding that most have full-time jobs and lease these spaces to exhibit and sell their handiwork, at the same time bringing in additional income for the building’s owner. Their rent helps pay her rent, so to speak.

Not only is the building almost fully occupied, but Case also uses the former garage in the rear for small wine-tasting parties for up to 38, and even additional seating, when needed. Speaking of seating, more tables are arranged within a garden terrace dressed up with plaster-of-Paris angels and other little folk, protected by an overhead trellis. No problem disturbing the next-door neighbor, either. Case lives in the house, which she bought in 2007. 

“It makes things very convenient,” she says. “I’m also a workaholic, and if I come up with an idea late at night, I can easily go next door to work.” The tiny, feisty and attractive owner also has a full-time job as an interior decorator, boasting a list of both commercial and private clients. “My mother was a designer and I learned from her,” she confesses.

Mark your calendar in the spring to take advantage of all the outdoor activities at Olives Eatery. But for now, do your holiday shopping in the building’s boutiques, as you enjoy the pleasure of dining in such an engaging and festive setting.